There's really no perfect word to describe my experience on this trip. It was a mixture of awe to foodgasm, confusion and annoyance and back to serene, then chaos. Overall, it was wonderful.
I can't remember the first time I wanted to go Japan. I didn't want to just visit but to stay there permanently. Was it animé? Was it my first favorite food, Tonkatsu? Or was it the kawaii girls? The real reason has long been forgotten but my desire has always been there to invade Japan.
Now that I have these two precious ladies in my life, travelling to Japan has become sweeter as I can share my happiness with them. We traveled in a big group, composed of 9 adults and 4 kids. You can only imagine the hassle of commuting that we went through. The experience of navigating through the most complicated train system in the world, however, was worth it. We tracked almost an average of 18,000 steps daily and that gave us enough tummy room for our endless appetite.
We landed in Osaka Kansai Airport and we took the JR Haruka Express to Kyoto (JPY 2,850 for non-reserved seat or around JPY 3,500 for reserved seat) where we stayed for 3 nights. The train ride was smooth and convenient and I was wrong to think that it would be like this for other trains. I was extremely wrong.
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| On the subway. Taken at 7:30 pm - clearly avoided rush hour |
We stayed at b' Kyoto Sanjo, which is a stone throw's away from Sanjo Keihan Station (Tozai Line), and close to the Gion district. Interestingly, you cannot find this hotel in Google Maps so we used the hotel website map to locate it. The room was clean and decent, my only take away is the bathroom is really small (probably around 3x3 sqm). Regardless, the famed Japanese electronic toilets are installed in every room, so they are taking the word comfort in comfort room seriously.
After checking in, we needed to eat dinner but unfortunately most of restaurants near the hotel closed early. I trusted my Google Map to bring us to a nearby Yakitori restaurant but eventually we got lost and settled for the nearest restaurant we could find. Japan must have given me shoku-un (Gourmet Luck in Toriko Manga) and led us to an interesting Jamaican Ramen place called Icchan Ramen.
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| Jerk Chicken Ramen - JPY 750 / SGD 10 |
I tried their specialty, Jerk Chicken Ramen, and it was really good. The soup was light - I think they used chicken bones to match the meat. The jerk chicken was so flavorful, obviously marinated using legit Jamaican spices. The sweetness of the tomato balanced the intense flavor of the chicken. The noodles were firm and it complemented the whole bowl. It may not be the conventional and traditional ramen but it achieved the most important aspect of a ramen bowl - harmonious balance of the soup, noodles and the meat.
Upon leaving Icchan, we saw this little bright shop opposite the street and decided to check it out. Then we discovered Konamonya-Hachi, claiming the Takoyaki Championships in Nara, Japan. Since I'm a sucker for product reviews and accomplishments, I immediately bought 6 pieces of Takoyaki for JPY 360 / SGD 5 only.
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| Takoyaki was so good I forgot to take a picture |
One bite of the Takoyaki already erased my takoyaki memories of Samurai Foods Takoyaki (looking back, it tasted weird), pasar malams, Wow Tako and even Tsukiji Gindaco. The sauce had the right balance of sweet, salty and umami. The tako (octopus) was very tender and not overcooked. I think tenkasu (tempura breading) won the competition. It melted and infused the flavor with the breading and it did not felt slimy when eating it. I haven't tried their competition yet but I can definitely say their takoyaki is champion quality.
Ok, enough food for now and hope you enjoy the beautiful sights of Kyoto below. :)
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| Tenryu-ji temple |
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| Double Geisha spotted at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove |
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| Fushimi Inari Taisho |
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| Clean and peaceful |
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| A must in Kyoto - Kinkaku-Ji Temple |
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| Amazing from any angle |
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| Old but soulful neighborhood at any street |
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| A must for manga otaku |
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| What a nice way to spend with your friend or loved ones. |
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| One of my favorite food themed manga - Toriko |
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| Night shot in front of b Hotel |
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| Hope she can remember this moment |
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| Time travelling at Gion alleyways |
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| Train reloading machines which reminded me of supercomputers used by superheroes when operation mechas |
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| Nijo Castle |
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| Give me a reason why you won't try this |
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| Obviously you choose No. 1! (I really am a sucker) |
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| Woah! The meat was really tender and fatty. Nothing more to say but oishi! |
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| Tako Tamago - Baby Octopus with Quail Egg inside the head |
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| Nishiki Daiyasu |
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| Grilled Oysters - 2 for JPY 580 / SGD 8 |
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| Walking back to Sanjo Keihan Station |
After spending 3 days in Kyoto, we headed back to Osaka to conclude our trip with foodgasmic experiences. We were really excited for the train ride back as we were ready to invade the world's street food - Dotonburi. However, we took the most complicated and tiring commute, too complicated I already forgot how we got there. Anyway, we just rested for the night to ready ourselves for another day of touring.
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| Osaka Castle Fortress |
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| Osaka's pride - Osaka Castle |
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| Fugetsu Okonomiyaki - This deserves its own entry (coming soon) |
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| Osaka Aquarium Seahorse |
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| Spider Crabs |
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| They call this the "Fried Egg Jellyfish" |
The highlight of the trip for me was eating one of the finest beef in Japan, if not the world - Matsusaka Beef. I hadn't known about this before researching food in Dotonbori. I think most of us only know Kobe Beef as one of the best but it was interesting to learn that Matsusaka Beef is already a great contender for the best beef.
Lora helped us book at Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M Dotonburi, and even locating this restaurant was confusing as they have different branches around Osaka. Good thing we reached right on time upon reaching the right branch. Based on the restaurant's website, "Considered as "the art of meat", MATSUSAKA BEEF get its tasty reputation and virgin status from the special treatment the cattle is given...To ensure satisfaction to our customers, all cows are fed beer to create a healthy appetite, and given a body massage with a mixture of shochu. This particular treatment creates a smooth blood circulation throughout the body of our cows." I thought free range is already the best condition you can give to cattles, but daily feeding of beer and massaging it with sake is on a whole different level. No wonder the meat is so flavorful as they are already marinating it alive!
Since I have psyched myself to go all out on food (never mind looking at the price), I ordered the Special Course. I initially wanted to order the premium course but upon looking at the inclusions, the special course was suitable for me... to have space for other after dinner food. EVERYTHING in the course was delicious, I don't even fancy sushi but I liked the marbled beef sushi. The short rib with garlic sauce was like beef's version of bacon - it was so addicting! I might be biased but their Garlic Rice was the best version of garlic rice I have eaten so far. Probably it was cooked with beef fat and butter to get that heavenly taste, too bad there was no option to refill.
My friend Karren, ordered the standard course but the resto served all our meat in one platter. If you can see below the leveling of marbling, leaner beef on the left to the most marbled one on the right. Good thing Karren, Lavin and I shared all the beef as food is much better if shared ;).
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| The meats are more white than pink - love |
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| Pigs should be ashamed of this meat |
There's only one meat in the platter that was only served for one person. Luckily, both Karren and Lavinia were full (I assumed) so I enjoyed this all by myself. When I ate it, I felt that the beef thanked me for eating him as he has lived the good life and he's passing on this experience to me. The meat melted in my tongue, I didn't even have to chew a lot and the fats immediately descended to my throat (and went directly to my arteries). I can definitely say, that this was the best meal I ate in Japan - gochiso sama deshita!
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| One bite is all I need |
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| Time to walk and digest the meal |
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| Hogwarts - just below are the sea of people queuing up for the ride |
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| Gyudon at Sukiya - JPY 580 / SGD 8 |
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| Always great to return to Dotonburi |
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| Happiness |
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| Alaskan King Crab fat was not as heavy as a normal crab fat. Rich in umami |
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| The King of Takoyaki |
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| I like how chefs are really serious in preparing even one type of dish |
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| Very fresh and delicious. 1 Scallop for JPY 500 / SGD 7 |
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| Japan really is a bike-friendly city. I live here I will ride this and not the train! |
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| Umeda Sky Building view |
As per some websites, Okonomiyaki by Fiji is the best in Osaka - I definitely agree!
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| Seafood Okonomiyaki |
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| Yakisoba |
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| Pork Okonomiyaki |
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| Triple Threat |
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| Hokkaido Cheese Ice Cream! SUPER YUM - JPY 324 / SGD 4.5 |
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| Zenya Restaurant - Yasai Itame and Chicken Nanban with Brown Rice |
This trip is really memorable not just because of the place or the food but the bonding experience with our oldest friends. The hassles of commuting were quickly dissipated by constant stops in convenience stores (thank you Family Mart, 7-11 and Lawson). We did not mind the long walks as we were all sharing stories and making fun of the situation. I am happy that we were able to follow 80% of the itinerary. Thanks to my wife for preparing it.
Even though traveling with kids is challenging compared to travelling alone or in a small group, I am still happy that the kids bonded well and I hope they would go on trips like this with their own family when they are older. All of us might be located thousand of miles from each other, but these memories and constant communication will continue to bind us together.
Arigato Japan for this awesome, unforgettable and wonderful trip. We will be back!
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